Resilience Amid Ruins: Documenting Armenia's Journey Through Conflict and Recovery

Tue, 30 Jul 2024 20:33:27 GMT

Armenia, a country nestled in the South Caucasus region of Eurasia, is bordered by Georgia to the north, Azerbaijan to the east, Iran to the south, and Turkey to the west. This region, steeped in a history of conflict, has been ruled by various empires including the Roman, Persian, Ottoman, and Russian.

Shrapnel from a shell on a shelled wall of a civilian residence in the Lachin Corridor, Nagorno-Karabakh, on Tuesday, 22 December 2020. (Photograph by Vudi Xhymshiti for THE PICTURES, via VX Pictures)

In 2020, the long-standing conflict between Armenia and Azerbaijan over the disputed Nagorno-Karabakh region erupted into war. Though internationally recognised as part of Azerbaijan, Nagorno-Karabakh is predominantly inhabited by ethnic Armenians. The conflict, which had simmered for decades, flared up in September 2020, resulting in thousands of deaths and the displacement of tens of thousands.

Alihan Gregorian, 66, weeps as he hugs the portrait of his fallen son, Alosha Gregorian, at their home. Alosha, 41, served in the army for fifteen years. (Photograph by Vudi Xhymshiti for THE PICTURES, via VX Pictures)

Drawn to the region to document the war's impact, I spent four months in Armenia, exploring its culture, history, politics, and customs, while reporting on the conflict and the resultant displacement. The war officially ended with a Russian-brokered peace agreement in November 2020, but tensions remain high, and the situation in Nagorno-Karabakh is still volatile. I continue to monitor developments closely, ready to return at a moment's notice.

Nagorno-Karabakh 2020:

The landlocked enclave of Nagorno-Karabakh, located within Azerbaijan’s official borders but governed by ethnic Armenians, has been the focal point of devastating conflicts from 1991 to 2020. The 44 days of intense fighting between Azerbaijani and Armenian forces culminated in a Russian-brokered peace deal on 9 November 2020. This agreement, while celebrated in Azerbaijan, sparked outrage in Armenia. Under its terms, Azerbaijan retained control over several areas captured during the conflict, while Armenia agreed to withdraw from other adjacent regions.

Primary School Number Ten building, damaged in shelling attacks during the 44-day war in Stepanakert, Nagorno-Karabakh. (Photograph by Vudi Xhymshiti for THE PICTURES, via VX Pictures)

Throughout the conflict, I travelled the Lachin Corridor, observing the aftermath of shelling on civilian residences, shepherds tending their flocks, and the rugged beauty of the mountains. I witnessed the coexistence of Azerbaijani forces and Russian peacekeepers who control the corridor, ensuring the safe return of displaced residents and the movement of civilians and military vehicles.

Daily Life Amidst Conflict:

On 23 December 2020, in Stepanakert, I met with women leaders of the self-proclaimed Republic of Artsakh. These women, members of the national assembly, educators, and heads of shelled schools, exhibited remarkable strength and resilience, standing together to rebuild their community and support their children amidst the ruins of Azerbaijani bombshells.

One poignant encounter was with Alihan Gregorian, who mourned the loss of his only son, killed during the conflict. His grief was a stark reminder of the war's personal toll on the families in the region.

Mirzjanyan Nonna, a Russian language teacher from Hadrut, teaches at Primary School No. 10 in Stepanakert on Wednesday, 23 December 2020. She misses her pupils from Hadrut and wishes to return. (Photograph by Vudi Xhymshiti for THE PICTURES, via VX Pictures)

Displacement and Resettlement:

The conflict displaced an estimated 92,639 people by December 2020. In Metsamor, I visited the Soviet Hotel, now housing displaced families from Nagorno-Karabakh. Alexander Alexanian, a 62-year-old father of three, expressed his longing to return home despite losing his leg in the 1992 conflict and the recent disappearance of his son-in-law during the war.

Alexander Alexaninan, a 62-year-old father of three from Aygestan, in Askeran Province, Nagorno-Karabakh, at the previously abandoned "SOVIET Hotel" in Metsamor, where he now shelters. (Photograph by Vudi Xhymshiti for THE PICTURES, via VX Pictures)

In Yerevan, Yerablur Military Cemetery stands as a sombre testament to the lives lost in the ongoing conflict. Families mourn their loved ones, and soldiers killed in the 2020 war are honoured with candlelit marches to the cemetery.

Armenian men in military attire board a bus following the funeral of a fallen soldier in Yerablur on Saturday, 30 January 2021. (Photograph by Vudi Xhymshiti for THE PICTURES, via VX Pictures)

Cultural and Historical Insights:

Beyond the conflict, Armenia's rich cultural heritage is evident in landmarks like the Temple of Garni and Geghard Monastery, showcasing medieval Armenian monastic architecture and artistry. The Lavash bread, a culinary staple, symbolises the enduring traditions of Armenian life.

A general view of the Haghartsin Monastery in Dilijan on Sunday, 31 January 2021. This 13th-century monastery, located in Tavush Province, was built between the 10th and 13th centuries under the patronage of the Bagratuni Dynasty. (Photograph by Vudi Xhymshiti for THE PICTURES, via VX Pictures)

During my travels, I also encountered the devastating impact of natural disasters, such as the 1988 earthquake in Spitak, which claimed 25,000 lives and left 500,000 homeless. The city's reconstruction efforts reflect the resilience and determination of its inhabitants.

An Armenian resident shows an old picture of a baby found in the rubble of a house abandoned after the Spitak earthquake 33 years ago. Spitak, entirely destroyed in the 1988 earthquake, is now rebuilt nearby. (Photograph by Vudi Xhymshiti for THE PICTURES, via VX Pictures)

2021 and Beyond:

In 2021, Armenia continues to grapple with the aftermath of the conflict and the challenges of rebuilding. From the bustling streets of Yerevan to the tranquil monasteries of Lori Province, the spirit of Armenia remains unbroken, its people forging ahead with hope and determination.

A bus driver works on the engine of an old Soviet passenger bus parked at the entry of Vanadzor city on Sunday, 16 January 2021. Vanadzor is the third-largest city in Armenia and the capital of Lori Province. (Photograph by Vudi Xhymshiti for THE PICTURES, via VX Pictures)

As a photojournalist, I remain committed to documenting these stories, shedding light on the enduring resilience of the Armenian people in the face of adversity.

An improvised street petrol station stands on an old green Russian-made Lada vehicle in Musayelyan Street, Gyumri, Armenia's second-largest city, on Monday, 1 February 2021. Gyumri is the administrative centre of Shirak Province. (Photograph by Vudi Xhymshiti for THE PICTURES, via VX Pictures)

Vudi Xhymshiti, photojournalist.