Bulgaria: A Journey Through History and Resilience
From historic Ruse's streets to the poignant Kanchev monument, Bulgaria's rich history and resilient spirit are captured in my journey towards Ukraine in 2023.
In the past sixteen years, my reporting has primarily focused on the Middle East and North Africa, with occasional assignments in Europe and the Caucasus. However, the recent full-scale war initiated by the Russian Federation in Ukraine redirected my attention to Eastern Europe. This November 2023, I embarked on a journey towards Ukraine, traversing various countries along the way, including Bulgaria.
During my travels, I visited numerous cities and villages, engaging in conversations with local residents. I captured moments through photographs and gathered stories, which will be featured in my forthcoming editorial collection on Bulgaria. One city that left a profound impression on me was Ruse, a northern border town adjacent to Romania. Ruse, the fifth-largest city in Bulgaria, sits on the right bank of the Danube River, opposite Giurgiu, Romania. Positioned approximately 67 kilometres south of Bucharest, 172 kilometres from Varna, and 249 kilometres from Sofia, Ruse is a city steeped in history and culture.
As I spent the night in Ruse, I took the opportunity to explore its picturesque Danube riverfront the next morning. My camera captured scenes of the city's streets, buildings, and the daily rhythms of its inhabitants. From people heading to work and students on their way to school to elderly women tending to cats in the early hours, Ruse revealed its vibrant and diverse character.
Kanchev's Legacy
One particularly poignant moment was my visit to the life-sized sculpture of Kanchev on "Slavyanska" Street. The statue, depicting him holding a revolver, symbolises his unwavering commitment to the cause of Bulgarian independence. Born around 1850 in Tryavna, Kanchev was educated in Ruse under mentors like Petko Slaveykov and Dragan Tsankov. A key figure in the national revolutionary movement, Kanchev took on organisational tasks for Vasil Levski in the Bulgarian Revolutionary Central Committee in Bucharest. Tragically, on 5 March 1872, facing Ottoman capture, he defiantly chose to end his own life in Ruse. His last words, "LONG LIVE BULGARIA," resonate through history. The enduring monument adjacent to his sacrifice site stands as a testament to his steadfast dedication. Today, Kanchev's former residence is a museum, preserving the legacy of a man who gave everything for Bulgaria's independence.
Ruse's Charm
Ruse itself is a city of contrasts and charm. A panoramic image captures a monument deemed "important to the nation's history" within the city, while another shows a quaint news agent shop. The Vintage Ruse gallery offers glimpses of historic residential houses, classic telephone booths, and an ironically named old mosque known as the New Mosque. An isolated vintage residential house nestles beside the railways, embodying the city's timeless appeal. A trolley bus drives by the historic mosque, "Nova Dzhamija," situated at the intersection of "Sent Uan" and "Stefan Stambolov" roads.
One of the most enchanting encounters during my stay in Ruse was the Violinist Fountain. Situated along the "Olimpi Panov" Road and "Alexandrovska" walkway, this monument captured my imagination. Unable to resist its charm, I took a series of compelling images that reflect the fountain's beauty and the city's unique character.
The Road Ahead
As I journeyed through Bulgaria on my way to Ukraine, I realised that this country, with its rich history and resilient spirit, has much to offer. The stories and images I gathered during my travels will not only feature in my editorial collection but also serve as a testament to the enduring strength and beauty of Bulgaria. Through the lens of my camera, I aim to shed light on the vibrant culture, history, and daily life of this remarkable nation.
Vudi Xhymshiti, photojournalist.